Now it is winter time here in Iceland so I´ve started taking my bike apart, motor has gone out and it will be repainted this winter.
Is there something I should be aware of before I start opening the motor.
I´ve got a complete gasket set and I´m not going to buy anything more yet.
If something is wrong then I´ll have to buy it but my bike ran flawless all summer so I hope everything is ok.
I´m just so curious to see what it looks like on the inside, also if I´ve gone trough it I now it is all my fault if it brakes down on me.
So what is the most important thing to be aware of?
Ok small mistake all of my bike will be repainted not just the motor.
How far do you intend on stripping the motor down?
why mess with it if its working fine, simple rule; if it aint broke thers no need to fix it because you’re just as likely to root it instead and then it will be your fault. i can understand painting though.
I intent to strip it all the way down and change bearing in my gearbox and check everything out and make sure it is fine.
I´ve heard this often ( if there is nothing wrong why mess with it?)
Just the fact it is 25 years old and I´m owner number 17 and it doesn´t have it´s original motor in makes me want to strip it down and work me way through it to make sure it is fine.
By the way I´m a Mechanic so I´ve seen few the inside of quite a few motors.
Till next time
You don’t need to strip it right down to get to the gearbox bearings, if they need changing, it is easily accessible from the underside of the engine. And being a mechanic you would know that it is highly inadvisable to strip down the con rods, pistons and rings without doing mains, big ends, gudgeon’s, etc… and at the least a hone and new rings or even a re-bore with new pistons depending on clearances of course. so you could be spending a lot of unnecessary dollars and hours doing something that didn’t need doing, but you might love your job as a “mechanic” and want the extra work and expense.
Thanks for the information about the gearbox bearings I´ll have to read my manual soon.
I don´t know how things are done in Australia but I have for several years been in the service team for boat engines up to 8000 horsepower and in a specified hours it is torn down and everything measured, if pistons, rings and bearings are with in the limits then we just clean everything up and put together again.
That is me intention if it is worn to the limit or more then I will for sure change it.
Last night I took the heads of and the cams out and it looks good so I´m going to strip the heads next and get them Machined so there will be no warping in them.
Till next time
A couple of things I came across while stripping mine may help you out,
- Cams and rockers:Measure these to see if they are in spec also look for any scoring and any pitted rockers, they can be hard faced and reground if they are worn out. If getting them reground you can go for a profile with a little more lift and duration to get her going a bit better.
2)Probably a good time to change the cam chains and tensioners as well if they look worn.
3)Valves: Have the valves re-seated and change valve stem seals. You can have the valves refaced if they need it although Honda say no you can’t please buy more!
4)Main and con rod bearings: There are three sizes that are used depending on the lettering on the case rear and the con rods and crank as to the fit, the manual has a section on identifying these.
You may find that all sizes are not available any more but the difference between the thicknesses is microscopic, you can check with plastiguage or similar to see that you are getting the correct clearance if you need to use a different size/colour and have any doubts.
5)Gears and selector forks: Check for any bent forks or worn gear dogs, if you weren’t having any trouble with it jumping out of gear before then it will probably be OK. You can have the gears undercut if you want, to help prevent this in the future if they look a bit doubtfull.
6)Bores: Check for any marks or scoring, if they all measure up it would be worth giving them a hone and fitting a new set of rings while you have it apart.
7)Carbies: If you are putting kits through these and are thinking of using Keyster kits these are designed for the US models and have smaller main jets supplied with them, double check you are getting the right size main jets when ordering. Check your slide diaphragms to make sure there are no holes and they are in reasonable condition, they can be replaced if torn, don’t mix them up as the springs in the front and rear are different. Make sure all adjustment linkages are all free and not seized and all internals are free of gunk. You may want to replace the carby rubber insulators if they are hard as it will be easier to refit them to the engine and you can be sure you are getting a good seal.