Flywheel/alternator puller

i’m a plonker and need some help please. i’ve read that the puller is M20 fine thread 1.5. Tried a bolt and its slightly too small diameter. Can anyone confirm that its M22 x 1.5. Have made a flywheel holder out of some bar and that works well and if I can pull it off I an get on and split the casing. So any help asap would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gerry

I have one, made at work, in 22x1.5 and it does the job! :wink:

Thats excellent. Will try to get one tomorrow. Thanks very much for your response. much appreciated.

Thanks again. got an M22 x 1.5 bolt locally. flywheel and alternator are off and casing split.

Hi Gerry I pulled my engine down today and faced the same problem my way round it was to use a 22x1.5 tap from a tap and dye set .also my engine I believe is beyond repair the left hand main shell is completely loose on the crankcases and badly scored the crank appears healthy but main cap does not fit the crankcases it is at least 1,4 mm smaller than the crank case and instead of them being a push fit into the case these 2 fall in and flop around but the crank appears unmarked and so do the cases not seen this before so could do with some help to find out what as happened and how do you know what size shell you require to replace it

regards Paul

hi paul,
ive not seen that either, as you say the main bearings are normally a push fit into the crank case, as far as know from search i did a while back the main bearings are now obsolete, and no longer available… however, i believe the mains from a kawasaki zzr1400 are the same size, i would assume that they wont be exactly the same, the locating lug may be different, but according to some i spoke to the locating lug,if different, could be ground off as the bearings are held in place by the pressure of the crank case halves when torqued down, or the case could be modified…
The outer main bearing size is identified by the letters on the rear of the crank case… the inner size is identified by the white numbers painted onto the crank… be careful the numbers are only painted on and easily rub off.
I have both the bearing size charts for the vf1000f and the zzr1400 i will post them up when i get back from work…

Hello both. Dont understand it either. Did you have that engine running Paul? If it helps I might end up with spare casings, crank, pistons etc, the ones off the engine thats in the bike. I stripped my spare engine and first signs are good. Cant feel any play that would indicate rod knock. Felt under the engine thats in the bike and could feel slack in one of the cylinder’s bearings. So the casings or crankshaft could be in a state. Still youre welcome to them, once they’re out, if any use to you.

i bought the spare engine on ebay for £150 and it looks from the new gaskets that the previous owner got so far then gave up. but there was a large piece of metal in the oilpan that I’ve traced to one of those chain gude thingys. It hadnt been mashed up and there were no filings in the oil (hopefully they didnt get removed in a previous oil change). The piece itself fits snug against the rest with no missing metal. Hopefully it fell straight into the sump and stayed there. I’m wondering if someone had laid the engine down resting on the guide and its got bent and fatigued.

paul, if you think you might need those casings please let me know and I’ll see if I can get the engine stripped sooner than later.

Gerry

Hi Gerry thanks for the offer but I have another almost complete bike to pick up at the end of the month with only about 28.000 miles on it so am going to use that engine and send the case and crank to a engineer and see what happens should be able to match a pair of shells from something if you need that lower tensioner arm guide I have 2 good ones and would let you have them if you like just let me know

regards Paul

Good to hear you have a solution Paul. And thanks for the offer. i’ll try to see if I can get the one out the bottom of the other engine but might be back in touch!

Thanks

Gerry