After doing the CBR wheel conversion on the FF, the front spins by hand but doesn’t quite have the free spinning play I’d expect.
There doesn’t appear to be any brake drag or anything interfering with it, so I’m suspecting that the axle might be the issue.
Any tips for getting the set up just right?
I know there’s a torque value for the axle nut, but I’m wondering if that is putting just a little too much pressure on the bearings?
It may be worth popping the seals out and going round the outer race of the bearings with a drift.
I had this problem on the 500 and found one bearing had not totally seated.
The spindle only locks the inner races to the internal spacer,tight is tight and there is no preload on the bearings
Good point Bif,
the bearing spacer was a little loose and moving around between the bearings.
Might be worth giving them a tap either side again.
Will do that when I’m doing the ride height adjustment at the back.
You were spot on, Bif.
Took it all out, gave the bearings another bash both sides and even though there was the familiar ring of metal to metal, on putting it all back together, there was a lot less resistance to spin.
However, despite the Wilbers 641 on the back having the ride height adjustment option, it was almost on max extension.
I measured it up and I have it on the max safe level and it is still not quite where I’d like it to be.
Ideally, I’d go for about 20-30mm more.
However, that would mean either another, longer bottom fitting. or different dog bones, which I’m sure are not in ready supply.
20-30 mm seem a lot,Dougherty Motorsport in the US were looking at 10-12mm on their conversion.
This was for an interceptor/FE though.
Fitting an FF/F2 rear unit would give you that being as they are 10mm longer.
It should be possible to extend the threaded section on the lower mount to give you more adjustment if you need it.
Just an after thought,what is your static sag like?
Perhaps you need more preload rather than more ride height.
For those who don’t get the whole static sag thing it works like this,
On the rear with the bike on the centre stand,measure from the chassis(not plastics) to the top of the swing arm just above the wheel spindle this is A
Now you need a bit of help,take the bike off the stand and sit in your normal riding position,ideally with your riding gear on,with someone holding the bars to balance you a second helper can remeasure between the same two points.
This is B.
In an ideal world A minus B equals 25% of the total rear suspension travel for fast road use or 30% for touring.
A value for suspension travel can be found in your manual.
On the Wilbers 641,one revolution or the preload nut equals 9mm of suspension height.
I’m not trying to teach my granny to suck eggs,this simple adjustment can transform the way your bike handles.
Yeah, got that one too. I have it on max preload
There are graduations on the preload adjuster body that show the extension.
The previous owner of the bike was shorted gentleman, I’d not be surprised if got some lowering tie rods.
Am I correct in saying that shorter tie rods (dog bones) will raise the rear?
If you can get a measure centre to centre on the link from the frame to the triangular linkage we can match it up with what we have here