Race tech springs and emulators

After our discussion on forks in Scotland I decided to go for the race tech setup. Went on their site and got details of springs FRSP S3234095 and emulators FEGV S4106 but they had no link for postage to UK so did some research and found some on Ebay in USA but with postage and import tax plus handling fee they were more expensive than some I found here. Suprisingly I found springs from a Harley Davidson shop in southport for £130 and emulators in a Sheffield race shop for £160 it may have worked out cheaper getting them from USA but I don’t think you would save much and at least I can return them if faulty and delivery is only 4 days not several weeks. Next thing I need to sort is fork oil, I was a bit lubricated myself when this conversation happened so cant remember what weight oil bif recommended though I think it was 15w also how many preload spacers are needed and how many holes need drilling in damping rod and how to remove anti dive and also I seem to remember you said a hole needed blocking off but cant remember which one! Thanks in advance.

Garyb

I’m sure that was 15w Strongbow you were on Gary.
Do a search on Race tech’s site as they have detailed fitting instructions for our forks.From memory it’s listed under the emulators
Regards Bif

Gary, I’m getting ready to do a set VF1000 forks. Can you give me some details on the FEGV S4106.

Did the kit include 1 or 2 emulators? It says 1 emulator on the Race Tech application spreadsheet, and I assume it gets installed on the compression damping side only. But I’ve come across some older literature that specifies S4101 for the VF1000 and that kit is two emulators.

Thanks, Mike.

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Hi captain, the kit I fitted had only one emulator and was fitted in the compression side. After talking to people who had fitted the older kit with two emulators I emailed race tech to ask why they had gone to one and they said that it interfered with the rebound when two are used on this type of fork, i don’t pretend to know anything about the subject other than it seems to work fantastic, I will see if I still have the email and will post it on the site.

Garyb

That is exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks!

I can get two 4101 for the price of one 4106. Just need the adapters (which apparently you can easily make per the instruction sheet).

Instructions talk about 3 rebound holes. I only see two, one small and one larger. Which one did you solder shut?

Thanks again for your time,
Mike.

Hi Captain,I fitted the earlier kit with two emulators,no adapters were needed and both holes are brazed up.I had my doubts when Gary bought a kit with only one,but he says it works well.
I was well impressed with the improvement on my Boldor after playing around with the oil level.
I dropped the oil by 50mm which did away with the harshness on smaller bumps
Bif

hi captain, the info given on the web site contradicts the email i had from their tech department. the web site says to braze up the two smaller holes in the rebound rod to give the correct rebound leaving the largest hole and cut off adjusting rod from the fork cap but the email says you can leave the rebound intact to keep adjustability. i brazed the two holes up leaving the largest, the smallest is so small you can hardly see it so i brazed over the area and filed it down, i dont think it would make any difference if this hole was left as it is. the site info is:

1 Remove the damping rods from the fork tubes.
2 Disassemble the adjustable rebound mechanism in the top of the damping rod. This is operated with a “D”
shaped rod connected to the fork cap. The rebound mechanism is held into the top of the damping rod with a circlip
under the access cover on top of the damping rod. Pry the access cover off, remove the circlip, remove the internal
hardware from the damping rod, they are no longer needed.
3 The “D” shaped adjustment rod that is attached to the cap must be removed with a hacksaw. Cut the rod off within
25mm (1 in) from the cap. The exact length is not critical.
4 This style damping rod has (3) rebound holes, (1) large upper hole and (2) lowers. The (2) lower rebound holes
must be brazed shut. Once brazed they must be filed smooth. Upon completion there should be only (1)
rebound hole. We have found this to be the best rebound setting with OSFO 15 Suspension Oil.
5 Follow the standard installation instructions above for the compression hole modifications. This includes
drilling the additional compression holes (located at the bottom of the damping rod) and removing TRAC Anti-Dive.
6 Review the pics below for the different damping rod styles: TRAC (top) and Adjustable Rebound (bottom)
TRAC Anti-Dive Clips
Top-out spring
Remove Rebound Adjuster
Hardware
Braze Up Rebound Holes
Pry off the Access Cover
Remove Circlip and
Rebound Flapper Valve
Bottoming Cone & Damping
Rod Notches must be lined
up

the email said:

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/VF1000R%20Interceptor/1985-86
Comments
TRAC Anti-Dive Must Be Disabled: TRAC at Left Fork that is Compression Damping only: FEGV S4106 Installs at Left Fork. Right Rebound Only, Do Not Modify to Retain Rebound Adjustment All Emulator Installs Must use Race Tech FRSP S3234 Fork Springs. See IP FEGV S4104V4 instructions on Rebound Mods Right Fork under racetech.com downloads.

This kit only includes one emulator and adapter because only one leg has a damping rod. FRSP S3234 fork springs must be used to prevent coil bind. Instructions attached. Use your DVS code here https://racetech.com/DVS/AccessDvs.aspx to get your custom setting.

Mike Crow
Tech Support

i emailed back to get clarification but cant find his reply though i remember he said that this type of fork setup had one fork doing the compression and the other doing rebound so two emulators would change the rebound characteristics as well as the compression and that the single unit had a stronger spring in the emulator to compensate. i guess that a really good fork brace would help if it works as he says.

garyb

Ok, thanks everybody. Maybe that smallest hole is tiny, but I swear I only see two holes that the rebound adjuster sweeps by. I’ll have a closer look.

The 4101 kit comes with the stiffer springs as well, so I’m pretty sure I’m gonna go that route and get the ability to upgrade two sets of 1000 forks. I already have 2 sets of RT springs. I did email tech asking about the difference between 4101 and 4106. He only said 6101 are more universal and can be used in multiple 41mm models. Then I specifically asked about what I was intending on doing, he just said I’ll need adapters (which I still don’t think I do, pretty sure the damping rod is cupped style). He didn’t mention valving differences at all.

Thoughts?

By the way, I have installed a few sets already, just not in any 1000s with the rebound.

Bif, when you say “both holes”, do you mean the two smallest?

Mike.

Yes the two at the top of the tube

Thanks, after actually looking closely, I found the second small tiny hole. I ordered up the S4101. I can get a pair of those from a vendor for the price of one 4106 that I would have to get from RT. Mike at RT confirmed they come with the correct heavier spring option.

I think I would go that route too,I found the rebound to be fine with the 15wt oil,at least both forks are working together both on compression and rebound
Bif

Actually, I’m planning on using just one as RT suggests, but able to upgrade 2 bikes for the price of one (the 1000F wheel swap and one of my 1000R). The 4106 is just a 4101 without the inner diameter adjustability of the optional split ring.