Is there a special technique to removing (and re-installing) the lower fairing on the Bol D’or? The workshop manual says ‘turn the front wheel either fully left or right and remove carefully’. I can’t seem to find sufficient clearance to do this with an entire lower fairing. So my current method is laborious and fiddly- I disassemble and reassemble the individual parts of the fairing in situ. Re-installing the lower fasteners of the radiator grille whilst still on the bike is a PITA. Any further information would be greatly appreciated.
I put a pair of bricks underneath the main stand and an other one under the front wheel and it’s over! But you’ve to be careful!
I like your thinking. While I was struggling with it last week I thought, I just need an extra 75mm (3") or so of clearance to the ground. I considered using some wooden blocks in the same manner you describe. Thanks for the suggestion.
To avoid scratching the fairing, I also put a blanket on the ground… (not Billie Jo Spears way, alas! :-X )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpA0oPR_EOQ
Well the addition of the bricks worked, just. It was still an effort. Up until today I had considered the removal/installation of the fairing on my GPZ900 to be the worst. Even on the Kawasaki sites devoted to those bikes, devotees list that task as the most loathsome, questioning the designer’s state of mental health. I can now officially say that the Bol D’or fairing has trumped that. It is a vile piece of work.
How do I hate thee Bol D’or fairing? Let me count the ways! I hate thee for thy awkwardly protruding air intake rubber accoutrements, that gleefully snag on every part of the cooling system and frame. I hate thee for thy brittle and fragile radiator grille fixture points, all of which I have had to re-engineer with riveted metal plates. I hate thee for thy inner fairing shrouds with their almost concealed screw points making it treacherous to avoid cross-threading. I hate thee for the contortionist act I must engage in to correctly position the two brackets arising from the indicators to secure the top cowling. And most of all I hate thee for thy ominous creaking sounds as I wrestle with the whole akward structure, fearful that yet more brittle plastic will expire at the tender age of 31, in spite of previous owner’s abundant application of epoxy, fibreglass, and welded plastic.
I also have TWO 900GPZ A1 and I agree with you about the F2 fairing but you should try a SC16/ SC20 VF1000R fairing, just for fun, keeping in mind that it as NO prop stand… :’(
I always lift the front end with scissor jack until the rear tyre reaches ground. Then remove the fairing with a blanket on the floor. There are weird sounds during the removing and installing process, and the setup looks very unstable, but I have managed about 8 years with that method. Once I had an access to a crane, it was very easy removal after lifting the front end about half metre
Why I hate the f2 fairing: It has to be removed for oil change, and it cracks easily, when the bike is laying on the ground.