Wow this looks impressive and hats off to your fine work.
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Hey Speedy, heard good things about Waggotts. Will be using them for all mine.
John
Bit more progress :
Rebuilt & refitted the heads, installed the new cams & refitted the motor into the frame
I welded some M8 bushes onto the underside of the swingarm before i blasted & painted it so i can use my rear paddock stand & made a piece to fit into the bottom yoke which i can use my jack/stand under to support it whilst i fit the motor, as recommended on here I’ve removed the clutch & getting it back in was way easier than getting it out :
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Looking good, what paint did you use on the engine cases and heads,
I used a 2 pack paint called Selemix 50% gloss on the engine and heads, I’ve used it previously on restorations and its brilliant, resists fuel and even brake fluid, fortunately its now available in a 2k aerosol :
Looks great.
Did you remove Alternator as well?
I removed a engine out of my crashed spare bike and removed clutch as well,still a mission.
I wonder how the factory did it?
Thanks Peter, no I left the alternator in
Thanks for the info fabnorman, ill have a look for that on the next one 
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I’m still pressing on with VF rebuild, keep getting stuck waiting for parts, currently I’m waiting for the water pipes, carb tops & exhaust heat shield to come back from the chrome plating guy so i can finish rebuilding the carbs & then i can reinstall them & the water pipes & all the back end, I’ve pulled the 2 bolts out & dropped the swingarm so i can get at the rear exhaust/head studs & refit the heat shield.
I was going to take the plugs out & spin the motor over to get oil pressure & fling some oil about generally so i’‘ve connected my big jump battery but I’ve got a weird thing going on where when i switch the ignition on none of the dash lights come on until i press the start button, then the start relay clicks & the dash lights all come on but the starter doesn’t do anything.
Battery has got 12.5v, I’ve checked the earth connection under the seat, I’ve already cleaned the paint off one of the engine mount points on the frame but I’ve double checked anyway
Tried wiggling the key in the lock but no change
Its in neutral
I don’t think it has a side stand switch ?
I’ve lost the original starter relay so I’ve connected a cheap one i had laying for now & ordered a OEM used one off ebay, 30A fuse on the relay is good
Anybody got any ideas please ?
Thats looking very nice now, I haven’t used the cheep blade type starter solinoids before but I seem to remember from a post on here that the wireing was different in the multi plug, someone else who’s used these may be able to confirm this..
And top marks for how tidy your workshop is, far tidier than mine 
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Labour of love right there….been there done that. This is going to be one nice VF when finished….keep us updated on progress. It’s good to see another VF saved from oblivion.
I agree with vf_pete. the “non-OEM” starter relays have been known to have some strange wiring, might pay to compare to the original in case it is different.
Smithy.
This solenoid has the terminals the correct way for the VF eBay item no. 175297789014.Also it looks as if the multi plug is the wrong way around,the loop on the back of the plug should be at the front
Regards Bif
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Thanks for the thoughts fella’s
I read about the terminals being the wrong way round on some of the cheap relay’s so I’ll have a better look at it.
I tried the connector with the loop the other way round Bif & it just blew the fuse instantly
I’ve got a used OEM one on the way from Germany so I’ll maybe just wait for that to arrive
Got the OEM starter relay today, fitted it and everything works perfectly, spun it over with the plugs out and got oil pressure 
Goodness only knows whats going on with the cheap relay but I could have got into a right pickle testing and inspecting stuff 
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Good to hear all is well Norman
I’ve connected and tested the fuel gauge, temp gauge and rad fans switch
The ignition lock is a bit loose and needs a wiggle to light up so I’ve got a new electrical part coming from CMS to put on the bottom of the original lock which will hopefully fix it, if not I’ll just put up with it
Picked up my chrome plated parts this morning as well so i can finish off the carbs rebuild and might even get chance to try to start it end next week of so 
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The new cable and connectors for the ignition lock has fixed my wiggly key problem, took the springs out and stretched them a little bit to before I fitted it and its mint now
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I’m going to need the same decals for my red and black bike too.