Hi Guys
Well I finally have all 9 friction disks and have installed them; Its been so long since I took the clutch apart, I have forgotten the last part of the assembly where the large aluminum plate along with the smaller one that fits in the centre and is held with the snap ring - I think are the last parts to be installed. I’ll try to explain my question - this larger plate comes in contact with the last friction disk. What holds the plate all together to keep contact with the friction disks? Remember, I have it all assembled but I can remove that large plate as nothing is preventing it from coming apart from the friction disks. I’m not sure if I have explained this correctly.
I started the engine this morning, I could hear something, a noise in the clutch area. I then pulled on the clutch lever to try to disengage the clutch but the lever is hard as a rock. The noise in the clutch has gone but I cannot pull the lever in. I’m not sure what has changed as I only changed the clutch friction disks, put everything back together (I’m pretty sure the same way as it came off), put the cover back on, filled with oil, started the engine but the clutch lever is rock hard. Any suggestions?
G’day Terry, Only a guess but it might be the pushrod (operated by the clutch slave cylinder) not sitting in properly, sounds like you may have to pull it apart again though [xx(]
I would take the clutch back off if were you.It must be something not fitted correctly not allowing the plates to disengage in the basket.You haven’t touched anyting else so it has to be in the clutch.Good luck.
I took off the clutch lifter plate and the clutch plate and it appears as though the clutch plate has come in contact with the cover, just a slight scuff mark, nothing much, which means to me the clutch plate may not have been in against the friction disks enough.
I tried to push back the push rod but no chance; I then pulled on the clutch lever and the rod moved out maybe 1/16 or so but then went rock hard again. I was unable to push the rod back and I’m not sure just what to do now other than bleed the line, what do you think - it’s a real pain!
Take the clutch piston off the sprocket cover and make sure that the pushrod is located correctly inside the piston. Could be jammed? Either that or the clutch basket components have been incorrectly assembled. If it was OK before, somethings got to have been put back in wrong. Double check the number of plates you have fitted as well, just in case. Take a methodical approach and work through it, checking each thing as you go and you’ll find it.
Yes, the one on the sprocket cover. Take it off, its held on by 3 bolts of differing lengths, so don’t mix em up. The pushrod locates in the centre of it, and it could have stuck. On occasion it’s been known for the piston to seize in its housing too, so now its off, check the piston moves when you operate the lever, then try and push the piston back in. You should be able to do it slowly by hand.
Right, I have checked all the bits for the disassembly of the clutch, and the reassembly, and in my mind’s eye there is only one way to put the clutch assembly back together - with nine friction disks and eight steel disks, with the basket back in place.
Now what I would like to know - on page 7-11 in the manual (clutch disassembly), if everything beyond the lock nut is OK you should be able to remove and/or reassemble the clutch pressure plate (as an assembly) without removing the snap ring. My point is - is this correct?
Clutch pressure plate
lifter plate
lifter guide
bearing
and snap ring all in one assembly
Now if that is so, when the push rod pushes on the lifter guide which pushes all the bits above, what makes the clutch pressure plate return and put pressure on the friction disks? As the clutch spring is held in by the nut, I’m not sure just what the spring is doing. I’m sure someone can explain this much better than me.
No, that’s wrong. The snap ring holds the whole shebang together outboard of the castellated nut. Double check the order of assembly for the spring, pressure plate, bearing and lifter guide, cos it’s wrong. The rod should operate the lifter against the pressure of the spring, raising the pressure plate away. Spring pressure should pull it back together when released.
Well Scratcher
you’re absolutely spot on with that dish spring - that just changed everything and after I bled the slave cyl, to push back the push rod it all works normal. You know I feel like a right nit; however when I get the charge back in the battery it just might fly.
Thanks a lot everyone, once again, Terry
p.s. Back in 84 I bought a brand new vf1000fe, it was the first one in our area of 300,000 people. I had it for about four months and my wife convinced me to get rid of it as I was racing other bikes with her on the back and due to my immaturity! Well I’m not sure if anything’s changed!
Just under a year I picked up the one I've got now. It was pretty original with 54k on it, but it obviously needed lots of work and I think it's just about there.
Hard luck once again - you can always shoot the damn lines man, Brit’s vs Ger.
Glad you got to the bottom of it in the end. It seems far less complicated when you get it right than when you just think you got it right! As for the footie, no more than our overpaid prima donnas deserved. We were Sh!t from start to finish!!
Well fellow bikers,
I would have gotten back to you sooner, however I had just one more glitch to take care of. That was the new battery I put in back in February - it had failed in one cell so it took a few days to change it. After starting her up yesterday, checking everything is back and ready to go, I took it out for a short ride to let it warm up and the result is no clutch slipping and it goes like hell! Well, break a leg, I can’t wait for just what’s next!
Thanks guys, hope to yap in the next topic. Terry.