I put the manual switch in parallel with the thermal switch, tapping into the black and green wires that go into it behind the headlight.
It works, anyway.
That’s good. How it should be.
John
It Depends,…
Red LEDs (and yellow and green) run at 2.2Vdc White & Blue LEDs run at 3.3Vdc
Also your bike Running Voltage is 14Vdc
Best to use 680ohm resistor (1/4 watt).
Also better to use a “clear” LED rather than “diffused”.
Diffused are not seen as bright, but clear will definitely be seen.
Also LEDs are “Light Emitting Diodes”, key is the term Diode, it only conducts in one direction. If it don’t light, flip the LED leads.
Or you can just get a 12V incandescent Illuminated Push-On/Push-Off Switch (comes with different color gels).
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Thanks.
Now to the eye rolling, face palm question.
I’ve bought a nominally 12v LED for the job (yet to be delivered) that is pre wired and nestling in an 8mm holder.
The vendors claim that it’s ready to just ‘plug and play’.
Would it be safe to conclude from that that the necessary resistor has already been incorporated?
Is there any way to determine whether it is, in fact, plug and play? I’d imagine that a simple resistance measurement with a multimeter would suffice?
Remember, as previously stated, I am to electronics what Liberace was to rugby union, and if I can’t hit it, I can’t understand it, so use words of one syllable if you reply.
Thanks again.
Hi Chris,
VF1000Fe is absolutely right and he sounds like he knows a lot more about electronics than I do but, If you decide to go with an incandescent push/pull switch the light will not work because you are only switching the negative to earth. However you can keep the manual switch that you have and install just an incandescent light instead of the Led and the resistor, like it is in the mud map. Jaycar Electronics have a good selection. A normal incandescent light would be easy to install alongside the manual switch that you already have (because of the switching of the negative to earth with no 12vdc supplied). This would give you a light on whenever the fans are on, which is what you originally wanted. You can get Led lights that have the resistors included for 12Vdc so if that’s what you bought then you obviously don’t have to worry about resistors, just wire it up like the Mud map less the resistor. It really is a matter of personal choice. You already have half the job done, so you just have to install the light, whichever one you prefer. Easy 
not so bad after all. Let me know how you get on.
Good luck
John
Mission accomplished. All installed and functioning.
I ended up making up a loom for the LED power and the two wires from the thermo switch and another one from the switch & LED installation so that the cluster can be removed simply by unplugging the extra wiring.
Connected everything up and it all works. The LED even comes on when the thermal switch trips in, too.
Thanks for your pointers, John. The installation was pretty easy once I knew what should be connected to where (see previous posts about my bike electrics expertise). It actually looks quite neat, almost like it should be there as standard.
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Well done Chris. I saw the previous posts and had a laugh at them, maybe you won’t feel so helpless now. I feel the same about electrics verses electronics sometimes. I have a basic knowledge about electronics but once it gets past Led’s and resistors I’m stuffed.
Stay safe.
John
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Be glad there is no radar on board. In RF circuits need voodoo to work 
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I’m on a roll!
I’ve fitted the override switch for the fuel pump relay too.
I need a lie down now.
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The extent of my knowledge of electronics is that it works by using magic smoke, and if the smoke escapes it stops working.
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I am with you ChrisB … 
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