Hi,
Just about ready to respray tank, fairing, side panels and tail unit for the VF1000F2 rebuid - but before I get to top coat I need to sort decals.
Anybody got any recommendations where to purchase OEM style decals in the U.K.
Thanks
VFCRAZY
Not sure mate. Sunrise graphics are well respected in restoration circles,they list some for the F2, but not all. But if you have the original paintwork including graphics, they can reproduce them all from those. Don’t know of anywhere else in the UK that produces replicas of the oe decals. My FE will be getting a full set of replicas including warning labels etc from canada made by CBdecals.com , they have a good reputation but they don’t list the F2. May be worth an email tho?
Thanks Scratcher,
sent an email off this morning to Sunrise and CBdecals also found a company in states Xtreemedecals.com, just see what replies I get.
Best place I have found in the UK can be contacted at www.the-image-works.co.uk.This company prints all its decals and has a massive catalogue.Worth an Email I would think,regards BIF
Thanks Bif,
just sent off an email as suggested.
Only reply so far from CBdecals - couldn’t help but did wish best with search.
Still need plastic covers that fit over fairing support frame where the mirrors attach - if you have any spare!!
Regards
Vfcrazy
Recon I may be able to help with the covers,give me a couple of days to check the stores,regards BIF
Thanks Bif, i’ll keep an eye out.
Just ordered Decals from Honda-decals.com.
The-image-works sent a photo of the ones they produce for the F2 but they didn’t look correct.
Regards
Vfcrazy
Yup got a set here. LHS is first class,RHS is good only fault is inside the front fixing hole may well fix with a washer.Email me if you want to take a look.Regards BIF.
bif@vf1000.com
My advice for the decals. Don’t use Honda Decals. Returned a set of stickers because they were nowhere near right, and still haven’t received a refund. Pain in the arse.
Mark at AFE Graphics, aka CB Decals is by far the best. First set was not quite right, the white stripe wasn’t candy, so he made a new set and sent them FOC. Didn’t even have to return the old ones, and mine was the first set he had sold.
Definitely would recommend him.
My VF is getting there. Engine painted, frame painted, engine to be installed, after I work out how to fit the carbs, if anyone has any hints please let me know. The rubbers are hard, so maybe I need new ones.
New rubbers are the go, mine were rock hard and I had to use a pry bar to even get them to move, the new ones are nice and flexible. Try part fitting the rubbers to engine and carby then wriggle down, a bit of silicon spray is also helpful.
I’ve just ordered a set from CB Decals in red with white lettering so hopefully the white will be spot on now you have sorted it out with them!
Thanks Planty,
I’m damn sure the decals from Mark at AFE are the best I can find. And the great thing is that his after sales service is spot on if they aren’t just right.
Regarding the carbies, I put vaseline on the rubbers, as you do…
and then got a big g clamp, and they still wouldn’t mate. I will try the idea about putting them half on and wriggling them though. Hope that works, and I now have two long g clamps to help force them into position.
Cheers,
Manwell
PS. Spoke to a pommie bike mechanic yesterday who seriously bagged out VF’s, calling them hand grenades. He went on about a serious problem with the bigends but never heard of it.
I have the engine out of the frame NOW. So, is there anything you definitely reckon I should do to it before I saueeze it back in?
Hi, had a big end bearing fail at 1500 miles (repaired under warrenty), then again at about 17000 miles on my 1984 vf1000fe.
The second time it was repaired the dealers said that they had fitted bearings with a slightly greater clearance than the recommended to give better high rpm running. without causing the bearings to overheat. I supose they meant it would give a greater oil film thickness between bearing and crank pin.
Both times the problem occured were in hot weather and fast riding although the temperature gauge hadn’t registered much above the normal running temperature.
The bike had been regularly serviced with oil and filter changed every 3000 miles
and even had the HONDA ptfe oil additive that was recommended at one time by honda for use in all VF’s because of the cam issues.
I don’t no if the later vf1000ff’s are any different.
Has anybody else had big end failures.
Regards
Vfcrazy
quote:
PS. Spoke to a pommie bike mechanic yesterday who seriously bagged out VF's, calling them hand grenades. He went on about a serious problem with the bigends but never heard of it.I have the engine out of the frame NOW. So, is there anything you definitely reckon I should do to it before I saueeze it back in?
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>I can’t think of anything that doesn’t involve a lot of work! If it’s been running ok I’d just slip it back in.
I haven’t heard about a big end problem with them, local bike mechanic said the VF bottom ends are ‘bullet proof’ but it seems like there are a few problems with some from what vfcrazy has been saying.
Only suggestion would be to use really good quality oil and change it often!
On the subject of things running hot, does anyone know if the vf1000fe runs slightly hotter than the vf1000ff.
Just been to buy a set of spark plugs and NGK list a hotter grade plug for the fe DPR8EA-9 against DPR9EA-9 for the ff.
Vfcrazy
Cooling capacity,thermostat and thermostatic switch for the cooling fans are the same for both models.Honda recommend 9s for sustained high speed riding on the FE.Regards BIF
Interesting BIF, is there any difference in carb jetting between the fe and ff the DPR8EA is the hotter grade plug if i’m reading the NGK info correctly.
Regards
Vfcrazy
Hi Bif, should have added the hotter the plug grade generally the cooler the combustion temperature is and vise versa, which would mean that the fe runs slightly cooler on the combustion, hence my question on jetting - leaner mix maybe?
Regards
Vfcrazy
Good point,the FE uses 150 front and 145 rear where the FF uses 110 front and rear.
The more I compare the fe to ff the more small changes seam to have been made.
So if the jets are different are the needles also different?
I know the front and rear bank carb piston springs are different lengths on the fe but what about the ff.
My fe had a couple of perished diaphrams, so fitted the pistons and diagrapms from a set of ff carbs, look identical apart from the finish on the piston.
I did swap out the needles but never looked for differences between them.
They appear to function correctly. But just another small change between models.
Regards
Vfcrazy
Pistons and diaphrams are common to all as long as you avoid German and Swiss models.I recon its almost impossible to see the difference in needles by eye,and if you fit a dynojet kit all the piston springs are the same length,go figure!