Gidday,
Have owned a VF 1000 f2f 86 for 6 years now after restoring it.
It only had 18,00kms on it when I got it, now it has 38,000kms. Until now I have had trouble free riding!! I do about 3-4000 km per year. I replaced the fuel tap grommet and ran it with the fuel tap off to check that it worked. Then it wouldn’t start. I replaced the fuel filter and that solved that problem - until it conked out again. I figured the fuel pump was buggered so I got an after-market car unit (1-4 PSI)and fitted that. All good.
Then it would go ok and then BREAK-DOWN -by that I mean run on two and slowly lose all power and conk out. I reckon its electrical. Battery was rat----. Got a newy. The coils seem ok and measure within spec. A new stator could be the go although expensive and I’ve heard the pulse generators could be the issue as well. This is the 2nd one I’ve had as I had one when I was younger. It’s been a great Bike.
Any thoughts on narrowing the problem??? Appreciate the forum.
Regards Knuck1k Wagga Australia.
The fuel pump relay can cause problems like that, have you tried running the bike with it bypassed? Check the manual for info.
Carbys could also be gunked up?
You can check the pulse generators by unplugging and measuring the resistance of both, can’t remember the values off the top of my head but they’re also in the manual.
Double check all connections to the spark units in the rear as well
Cheers
Sounds like you need a plan of eliminating parts as you go,so you need to start somewhere.
I would start at the petrol tank for rust as this will clog up the fuel filter and the pump or the pump is just getting old and intermittent like my old one making the engine die and splutter like its on 2 cylinders[?]
test the pump.
Confirm first that you have fuel flow through to a large container or clean bucket.this will eliminate the tank/filter/pump of faults
hope the replacement pump is up to the job,it has to do upto 900ml in a minute.
when you have checked that I will get you onto stage 2 fault finding
you have to be methodical about this ,its the only way to succeed in finding the problem.
[8D]
I had similar problems 3 weeks ago, started a thread called “won’t stay running” I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel relay and everything has been golden since…
Gidday again,
Have been busy with all your suggestions and watching the Olympics!! Thank you for all replies. I started with the fuel line , as I had replaced the original molded one, and got rid of the kinks be using brass elbows. Then I replaced the T bit that divides the line between the two sets of carbies, with a brass T piece. Tested the pump and line by hotwiring the fuel relay. All opk. So far so good. I’m now waiting for a clutch cover gasket, as I had removed the cover to test the pulse generators, which by the way were OK. Will report back when it arrives from the UK, and I have put the bike back together. Regards Knuck1k
Hello,
probably the solution is around the corner! If you smell gasoline when the engine is at operating temperature and you cannot restart it when you turn off the warm engine.
If you cannot go over 4000/5000 rpm, … if the engine start normally when it’s cold, the solution is: you cannot believe … check the vent tube of the carb inside the rear swingarm! Inside you can find a 90° tube curve, after a lot of years it flatted and the air cannot goes out, so the gasoline cannot go in the carb!!!
Let me know guys.
Adriano from Italy
Thats a good point Adriano. The other check is the famous fuel tank vent. However, Windys method is the proper approach - one change/check at a time.