Hi Tony
Similar symptoms indeed. I bought the bike in October last year; the guy who sold me the bike was elderly and I felt he was fairly honest and knew something about bikes. He had just bought a new BMW 1200. He did say the bike had sat for 6/8 months and the carbs could need jetting. I will start checking this weekend for any easy fixes like the rectifier and add a new gas line. Wow, if what you say is the real problem I’m hung over. This problem may have been there all along as I know the acceleration wasn’t the best, but it’s hard that this thing would go this poor over night.
Oh I see, this is just a recent thing since changing the filters. As you say, have a good look at the fuel lines and pump/hoses, check flow rate etc to make sure you are getting the correct fuel flow and nothing is blocked.
Also check that you haven’t knocked any wires loose on the two coils(under the tank) as it could be running on two cylinders.(check that all cylinders are getting hot when its running.
Once again it's good to get help with these problems, although they are quite interesting. OK, today I spent 5hr trouble shooting the gas and ignition situation as you mentioned on page 4-19. I jumped the fuel pump and opened the gas line as close to the carbs as possible, turned on the ignition and there was plenty of flow so I pulled both rear spark plugs. They were a little wet, not much though, and so I went on to try a spark test. No spark was visible so I started testing the ignition system on pages 19-3 thru 19-4. The only thing I wasn't sure of was the pulse generator coupler on page 19-4. What I think it was, it's connected to the wiring harness just up from the battery, its size is about 3/8D x 3/8H x 3/4L and two prong and has a number on it S3H-02. My meter reading on that was 6.85k not the 480k as mentioned. All other tests were quite accurate. I'm not sure just what to do now - got any thoughts? Just a word, the bike a couple of days ago did barely start, now just the starter motor is turning the motor. I'm puzzled.
Terry
Thanks for your response. The last time the bike ran OK was before I had to replace the starter button. When I tried to now start the bike it would start but had very little RPM's, approx. under 2000 with or without choke. It started that way a few times then it started to back fire, now it will no longer start. I'm still not sure just what I have changed. It may be right in the area I replaced the start button.
Terry
First thing I would do is to reconnect your old starter switch, (I’m assuming you have fitted the new starter/kill switch you bought)as the connections from the starter/kill switch are tied up with the spark/ignition units and the pulse generators.
If that makes no difference check whether you have spark on all four cyls, the ignition system is broken down into two parts, one for cyls 1-3 (rears from LHS) plus tacho operation, the other for cyls 2-4 (fronts from LHS)
Try using a new plug and comparing it with the spark (if any) from the old plugs.
Make sure you have a good earthing point on the frame/engine, shiny bolt or similar when checking.
Have a good look at your wiring looms/connectors running from the two spark units under the rear of the seat to the two ignition coils, make sure all the earths connecting to the frame/ battery are all good as these can cause problems.
I’ll double check on the pulse generator plug but I reckon it has more than two prongs on the connector.
Last of all and most important, if this is giving you the shits go and have several beers to relax your brain, this is the most important part of effective fault finding!![:D]
Hi Tony
I think your last comment sounds good I’ll get back to you on the other’s And by the way how are you making out on your oil mod? I hope your luck is changing.
First thing I would do is to reconnect your old starter switch, (I’m assuming you have fitted the new starter/kill switch you bought)as the connections from the starter/kill switch are tied up with the spark/ignition units and the pulse generators.
If that makes no difference check whether you have spark on all four cyls, the ignition system is broken down into two parts, one for cyls 1-3 (rears from LHS) plus tacho operation, the other for cyls 2-4 (fronts from LHS)
Try using a new plug and comparing it with the spark (if any) from the old plugs.
Make sure you have a good earthing point on the frame/engine, shiny bolt or similar when checking.
Have a good look at your wiring looms/connectors running from the two spark units under the rear of the seat to the two ignition coils, make sure all the earths connecting to the frame/ battery are all good as these can cause problems.
I’ll double check on the pulse generator plug but I reckon it has more than two prongs on the connector.
Last of all and most important, if this is giving you the shits go and have several beers to relax your brain, this is the most important part of effective fault finding!![:D]</font id=“size5”>
Planty…you sure know ya stuff…Totally agree with you there mate. Sorry can’t contribute any more than Planty hydra. I’m following this thread with interest.
The best I can do at the moment for you is have another beer.
Hi Guy’s
The beer was good, I didn’t have as many - I was quite anxious to check the new updates from the most recent replies. There may be light at the end of the tunnel. As per your posts, I opened the start/kill switch and nothing looked out of place. I removed the cover rear of the seat were I could see the spark unit - I was not aware of how to check them with a meter so I pulled #3 plug, found a good ground and with the ignition on and the switch in run I cranked it over. No visible spark, so I swapped a plug wire from #4 to #3 - same routine, no spark. I pulled #1 wire and grounded it - no spark. Tried changing the spark units at the rear and it made no difference, but #2 and #4 both had spark so I swapped coil wires from 1-3 to 2-4. 1-3 had spark, 2-4 no spark. This process you mentioned, Tony, I think has found the problem. There is a bike wrecker about 100km away where I found the start switch - they also had the coil. In the meantime I may finish off the rest of the beer! Cheers mate. Oh yes I’ll get back with the results!
The only other thing I would check is the wiring from the spark unit to the coil for 1-3, give any connectors in the circuit a clean/wiggle.
You could also swap the power wires from coil 2-4 over to 1-3 coil and see if there is any spark from 1-3, if there still isn’t any it’s definitely the coil itself that is faulty.
Still no sign of my oil mod kit, I think I’ll just order another one from elsewhere. If the one from D Dodge ever arrives I’ll frame it and hang it up on the wall!!
Well the light may be fading at the end of the tunnel, earlier I mentioned it must be the coil it wasn’t’ it turns out Tobe the feed wires to that coil? when checking with the meter with the ignition on and cranking it over I get nothing but on the other coil with the meter my meter lights up and yes that is the one I have spark from. I have crossed over the spark units but that didn’t tell or do anything I’m just not sure what else to try.OH the wires I’m talking about on the coil that,s good the wires two prong’ feed wire blue with black/wight the other coil that’s not working yellow with black/wight.
First thing is to swap the black/white wire only from the working coil to the one that isn’t working,test for a spark, this is to check the earth/negative wire.
If no luck with that follow the blue wire back to the spark unit and check any connectors on the way.
It looks like this wire runs from the spark unit to operate the fuel pump relay and to the coil for 2-4, so it could be causing problems with the fuel pump operation and the 2-4 coil.
I’m not sure what sort of meter/checker you have but see if you can check for power from the 2-4 spark unit connector itself(blue wire) and then work your way to any connectors and the fuel pump relay itself and on to the 2-4 coil.
Hopefully you will find a broken wire or bad connection somewhere that’s causing the problem!
First thing is to swap the black/white wire only from the working coil to the one that isn’t working,test for a spark, this is to check the earth/negative wire.
If no luck with that follow the blue wire back to the spark unit and check any connectors on the way.
It looks like this wire runs from the spark unit to operate the fuel pump relay and to the coil for 2-4, so it could be causing problems with the fuel pump operation and the 2-4 coil.
I’m not sure what sort of meter/checker you have but see if you can check for power from the 2-4 spark unit connector itself(blue wire) and then work your way to any connectors and the fuel pump relay itself and on to the 2-4 coil.
Hopefully you will find a broken wire or bad connection somewhere that’s causing the problem!
Thanks Tony shall give that a try, I’m away for a couple of Days but should be back for Saturday.
Hi Tony
Back again thanks for your comments" I spent a little time Saturday with some minor success? however I tied to move the bike to a more open area and it fell over, save the bike first ya? I ended saving it before it was all the way down, I ended up spraining my wrist’ but all is well, I’m typing with one hand so it may be missing the odd thing or two I’ll explain the minor success in a couple of days on recovery, but were back to light at the end of the tunnel.
They’re top heavy buggers aren’t they, I nearly came to grief a couple of times when first moving mine around my shed, I think I’ll get the missus to push me while I sit on mine and steer from now on [8D]
Things are better than they were on Saturday - wrist is almost fixed. As per my last e-mail when I mentioned light at the end of the tunnel, I basically went through every connection on the bike after I tried what you had mentioned (and by the I was stumped prior to that). I think there is a connection on the left side near the voltage relay, it's a single wire, and it may be the culprit. Anyway, I had gotten to the point were I was undoing at least two or three connectors at a time to try cut through the chase. I finally got a spark and if it hadn't been for the gas pump not working it probably would have started. That, by the way, was another wire I may have not put back properly and, yes, it was the gas pump wire. Once that was properly conected it started up. I was so excited I rode around the block a few times! I did clean the fuel tank and all the gas lines and even took out all the mixture screws and squirted WD-40 through the ports, gave it a quick blast with the air nozzle, then put them back fully in and backed them off 2 1/2 turns. I really didn't know what I was doing but what the hell I thought I would give it a go. It seemed like the thing to do and after a few minutes and a couple of firm rolls of the throttle there was no hesitation, just pretty good HP. However the saga keeps going - my clutch started to slip once the engine warmed up. Please bear with me, I'm going to start a new post on it (clutch slipping)!
A special thanks Tony, and for your help Gunner, and your comments Tiny Tim.
Terry