Quick question re vacuum guages

Just a quick question can anyone confirm the adapter size (i.e. thread into the inlets) for the carb vacuum guages please?
I can’t measure mine as the engine is away for some paintwork, but I want to buy some carb vacuum guages so I can have a go at balancing.
I like a challenge!!!
My bike is a VF1000RE
Thanks

M5,the gauges I bought had both m5 and m4 adapters included

Thankyou Bif, I just purchased a set that has M5 adapters.
Although the first challenge is going to be how to get the engine back in on my own!
Any suggestions on that would be very well recieved.
Thanks N

Engine install really depends on wether the rest of the bike is complete?
If it’s just the frame, you can lay the motor on soft pads and easily lower the frame onto it, then replace the LHS subframe.
I have carefully jacked a motor into a complete rolling chassis by myself, using trolley jack, blocks of wood, and lots of thin ish bubble wrap to protect paint on motor, and frame.
Best if you can convince someone to help, they don’t have to be a mechanic, just a sensible helper!

1 Like

Thanks for your help, Mine is currently a complete rolling chassis so I will try that first. I also have no one near me to help so will have to try the approach with a trolley jack. I have had a 10 inch square plate made that fits in the trolley jack to sit the engine on.
The tricky bit when the engine came out was the frame moved around a lot and made it very difficult. Not sure how to secure the frame as it is so light without the engine.

Here is a pic how I did it the last time:

motortausch

Not sure if I installed the clutch cover later :thinking:

Interesting, I am going to try trolley jacking the engine in from below but if that doesn’t work I will try and hire an engine hoist and could try this way…
Thanks for the idea and the picture

1 Like

I normally do it on my own,engine on a trolley jack with the clutch and casing off.

1 Like

It was a two man job and you somehow have to move the frame/engine a little bit.

Bif’s suggestion of clutch, and clutch cover off is the way to go- that is the tight spot when you’re trying to get it in at an angle. Without the clutch you have eliminated the main tight spot, and are less likely to bang the heads around while trying to push it in.

WBRK61671
Found a pic from last week removal of an R motor. You can see two jack stands under the swing arm for support.

Have got the engine back in now, managed on my own using a trolley jack. The final attempt (after a few fails) was to remove rear cam cover and clutch cover and jack up the rear of the bike…
The engine now has the cams and followers reworked by Joy Cams, new valve guide seals, valves lapped, compression was checked & approx. 200psi for all cylinders and the bores looked good so didn’t delve any deeper, new gaskets and seals on everything undone. Next job is to clean up the carbs, remove a failing fuel tank liner then reassemble. Will see how good a job I’ve done when I try to start it!
Thanks everyone for all the help so far it has proved invaluable.

Woohoo!
Getting close now. Take your time and be thorough reassembling carbs etc.
Keep us informed

Carbs cleaned and jets renewed, all back in frame and she starts! Set up the pilot jets and balanced the carbs and sounds good.
Just need the fuel tank back now which is having an old failed liner stripped out. Once back I can complete the build and take for a ride.
Again thanks for all the help and advice.
image

3 Likes

Sweeeet!!! Looks fantastic!