Rad Fan Switch again...

Just noticed someone asking about this on Ebay again…

Must be time for a reminder…[;)]

Problem…?? Radiator Fans don’t switch on until AFTER your engine has seized…

The problem is WIDLY known and most folk set about adding a manual fan switch to their bike’s wiring to combat the problem…

BUT: That depends on A: you noticing that the bike is overheating and B: You turning the switch on in time… Seems common sense, but not everyone gets it sorted in time…

Solution: Better thermo-switch…

To cut (another) long story short… I researched this problem long & weary… I got the tech specs for the OEM switch (and the one that Honda modded the bikes with - came from the VF400F) and looked about for comparible switches… My criteria was that it fitted without modding the top rad and that it switched at a LOWER temp than either Honda item…

Result: Intermotor Part No. 50454 is the switch you need… It is their replacement for Subaru parts… 83052-GA045/GA051

Thread is M16 x 1.5mm
Nut is 22mm AF
Closes @ 95 deg C
Opens @ 90 deg C

This switch comes with a short wiring assy and a 2-pin plug…

Cut the wires off close to the terminals on the switch…

Use a soldering iron to remove the ends of the wires from the terminals and clean the terminals up… You should be left with a switch that has 2 nice 6.3 mm spade terminals on it…

Now to the bike…

Remove the upper fairing…

Remove the headlamp and it’s mounting plate

Now you see the top rad… When you unscrew the old switch, you’ll lose some coolant… Best to keep this off the paintwork, so I put a bin-bag over the front mudguard and a cloth over that…

Unscrew the switch… collect the coolant in a bucket if you want, I do, but just bin it afterwards anyway…

Insert the new switch (bit of grease on the threads & seal won’t hurt… Check the torque… It’s NOT high…

You’ll notice that the OEM fan connector won’t fit the new switch…

Check the connector & identify which side the “tang” that holds each terminal into the plastic is… From the front, slide a tiny flat blade screwdriver into the connector until it pushes the tang back… now gently pull the wire out… Repeat for the other wire…

Now… 2 choices… either cut the OEM spades off and re-terminate with insulated ones… OR… Just push the spades onto the switch…

Refit headlamp

Top up coolant - start bike and get her nice & warm… Top up after she’s cooled down again…

Refit fairing… Job Done…

HTH

Miti

Top stuff m8! Excellent description and very thorough. Do you know how much the Intermoto/Subaru part costs?

Scratcher…

I bought mine about 2 years ago from the local Motor-World store… Think it cost £14.99… Might’ve been £12.99…??? Certainly not the £40 plus that Honda want for one that doesn’t feckin’ work…!!

Miti

Interesting. Must do this mod to the 1000, just wonder if the same switch will fit the 500?

Miti babe…have just fited my repaired top rad and headlight and now you come and tell us this…Fookin Ace [;)]…Really good description about summat I’d pondered over but couldn’t be arsed to go further with…But now I’ve read your post I’m afraid I’m gonna have to do it…Excellent info Miti Matey…[8D][8D][8D]