Removing studs from block

I am fitting 85 heads to an 84 engine. However, the 85 has studs and the 84 has bolts. I can’t use the bolts as they foul on the head so I will need to use studs. Will the studs unscrew from the 85 block if I double nut them?
Of course if they I will need to find some M( x 1.25 nuts

They should do,worth heating the casing up good and hot with a heat gun first just to break up any thread lock in there
regards Bif

Thanks, will go with the heat.
I meant M9 x 1.25. Rare as hens teeth. Will get a stud remover

OK, now have the 84 heads and 85 heads apart for valve work. (I am using the 84 valves as they are in better condition)
I have noticed the 84 outer valve springs are longer than 85 but 84 inner springs are shorter than 85.
Question is, which ones are better?

I am in no way an expert like VFPete or Bif but some information about the cam Problems on the FE(84)bikes were more to do with the loading of 2 vaves on one cam journal. This may be why the FF(85) model had revised valve springs. I personally would check the springs Service Limits for the 85 AND check the valve stem length is the same on both models then use the 85 Valve springs.

Although the part numbers are different the free length of the springs are the same for both models.
I would be sorting the outers nearest to 44.94mm and inners nearest to 39.01mm,that’s the recommended free length for both models
regards Bif

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Crikey those studs were tight! No thread lock, the studs have are tapered wider above the thread and seem to lock in by deforming the top thread in the block.
Heads all together now with the selected springs.
Valves seats were a little past lapping at about 2.0mm wide at some points so purchased a cheap Chinese valve seat cutting kit and was very pleased with the result. A little lapping and they were perfect.
Question remains as to whether the rear rocker cover will clear the frame rail. Comments on here give varying answers.
Additionally the rear shock seems very stiff/sticky so I am planning to fit a standard Blackbird shock with an adaptor. I installed a Penske on my Blackbird some years ago so this has been sitting around since.
Has anyone done this?


If your fitting what will basically be a ff engine into a fe frame you wont be able to remove the rocker cover when the engine is in frame,
As for fitting a blackbird shock on a vf you need to research the actual blackbird shock travel , the vf shock travels approx 47mm, many more modern shocks have a greater travel, which means they have a weaker spring,
I experimented with a number of shocks none of which worked, tried a zzr1400 which had somewhere in the region of 80mm of travel, this shock pretty much fully compressed under the weight of the bike…the cbr600f early model shocks were closest when turned up to maximum preload,
You can of course have them re sprung, but for me by the time you’ve messed about you may as well buy the correct aftermarket shock, much better ride and a whole world safer…

Thanks Pete, OK I accept the inability to remove the rocker cover, I just wanted to make sure it will actually fit. It seems I may have to make an adjustment to the thermostat housing position as well.
Regarding the shock I will take a few measurements. Does anyone know the effective spring rate required so I can compare?

So I googled spring rates for both VF1000 and Blackbird and they seem to be the same.
I will make a quick dummy adaptor to test the theory and report as to the result.

Well the engine is in with about 1mm of clearance from the frame on rear rocker cover. Minor trim of radiator mounts on the front. Thermostat housing has about 1mm clearance as well.
Left side triangular engine mount needed a different spacer.IMG_0129 IMG_0128
Blackbird shock in with a custom adaptor and seems to be fine. Will only know how it performs when I finish off the brakes and actually ride it.
IMG_0139 IMG_0138

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That’s a tidy bit of fabrication,if the blackbird shock works out your adapter could be in demand

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She is up and running. I had not ridden this bike before now so I did not know what to expect except for reading tests from back in the day. What a beautiful engine! The torque is so linear and smooth. Its a little lumpy at idle so I need to balance the carbs but everything is working as it should. The DIY top end oil mod went well and just one coolant leak which was a top radiator clamp a little loose. The Blackbird shock seems to work much better than I remember it working in the Blackbird. Maybe it is that my performance expectations of the VF is not what I expect from the Blackbird.
The bike had been in a shed for many years unloved but complete.
Plastics are yet to be done as I am waiting for decalsIMG_9949

Hi Jeffo, are you in Oz, looks like colorbond fencing and drought stricken paddocks in pics?

That’s it, well spotted. I picked the bike up from Wadonga. One of our daughters lives near Albury. I’m on the Central Coast.

Welcome to the joys of VF ownership Jeffo, yes great linear power as you pointed out, but a tad thirsty and hungry for attention, but lots of character to go with it!
Looks like you’re doing a great job of it, well done. Months ago now I was trying to get a bunch of VF riders from Sydney and Canberra area for a ride, but bushfires and then Covid intervened, would you be interested in meeting up once you get your bike sorted, and it`s legal to ride highways and byways? Three or 4 VF riders down ACT way and a couple in Sydney.

I like your Blackbird shock mod, will check out a mates stockpile to see if he has a shock?

Heard there was a bit of a cluster down Canberra way.
My old Blackbird shock must have been kicking around the shed for about 10 years before I found a use for it. The VF original was sacrificed for the bottom yoke so it’s not going to see service again I expect.