Restoring my FE

In the Shed
1

Im restoring my VF1000F 1984 to its original glory, the engine is pristine. so its the paint and powder coating and rest of the parts.

Please suggest the do’s and dont’s in a paint restoration. Im currently stripping the bike down to order body parts, rubbers etc etc. Frame and engine paint require powder coating right?? please advise. what abt the wheels??

2

If you want an original finish, the powder coat silver is not quite right. I got mine done in the original honda paint code number(I have it’s modern equivalent if you need it) by a mate in the paint game and it’s an exact match. Maybe not quite so durable as powdercoat, but she’s not going to be ridden in any blizzards or sandstorms so it’s really not an issue. Stock wheels are a mix of parts, with a painted hub and black anodised ‘spokes’ and rim all bolted together(unless you have the cast mag US wheels). They are bolted together using trochoidal bolts/nuts(3 sided)so as to deter dismantling. I don’t know the best way to go about refinishing them( I’ve managed to get hold of a pair of NOS ones still in the boxes). I suppose black powdercoat would give the most uniform results, but not the most accurate to the original. I am about to get the crank cases etc refinished on my own VF and was told the best finish would be acheived if all the 25 year old paint was removed first to give a good clean surface on which to apply the new finish. I have used a company which removed all the old paint by ‘sodablasting’ the cases, to give a clean blemish free key, with no associated grit to blow out afterwards and the result was impressive, like new cases! I have yet to decide whether to powdercoat them or use PJ1 engine case paint, which I have tested on the bare alloy sprocket cover with impressive results, very smooth, gloss finish as dark and shiny as stock! If I go the powdercoat route, I’d be very careful to mask up any threads, oil holes and gasket faces beforehand, cos getting that stuff off/out is a real pig of a job.

3

I would get advice off your chosen powdercoater regarding the wheels, at work we regularly use a powdercoater for machinery guarding, because powdercoating uses a heat process, for us it regularly loosens off fasteners, more so when there is a mix of metals such as steel and aluminium, I believe it may be down to differing expansion rates, not a problem for us as we can simply replace fasteners, this would probably be an issue on the comstar fabricated wheels, on the engine casings I bead blasted mine, and used a black CT etch primer, primer filler, and 2 pack polyurethane/acrylic, this has been on the VF for three years and used occaisonally through two road salted winters and the paint is fine, the only problem I have had is having the primer filler too thick near where the bolt heads sit on the casing, which I now know to avoid next time.

4

Scratcher, I would be interested in the silver colour match you found for the frame, could you post the original and modern equivalent.

Thanks

5
quote:
Originally posted by scratcher

If you want an original finish, the powder coat silver is not quite right. I got mine done in the original honda paint code number(I have it’s modern equivalent if you need it) by a mate in the paint game and it’s an exact match.

Can we have the paint code and product info please.

quote:
Originally posted by scratcher

I suppose black powdercoat would give the most uniform results, but not the most accurate to the original. I am about to get the crank cases etc refinished on my own VF and was told the best finish would be acheived if all the 25 year old paint was removed first to give a good clean surface on which to apply the new finish. I have used a company which removed all the old paint by ‘sodablasting’ the cases, to give a clean blemish free key, with no associated grit to blow out afterwards and the result was impressive, like new cases! I have yet to decide whether to powdercoat them or use PJ1 engine case paint, which I have tested on the bare alloy sprocket cover with impressive results, very smooth, gloss finish as dark and shiny as stock! If I go the powdercoat route, I’d be very careful to mask up any threads, oil holes and gasket faces beforehand, cos getting that stuff off/out is a real pig of a job.

From what ure saying the PJ1 engine case paint is safer. But will will withstand the heat generated by the V4? are there any other alternatives?

Thanks for the reply mate very helpful.

6
quote:
Originally posted by revhappy
quote:
Originally posted by scratcher

If you want an original finish, the powder coat silver is not quite right. I got mine done in the original honda paint code number(I have it’s modern equivalent if you need it) by a mate in the paint game and it’s an exact match.

Can we have the paint code and product info please.

quote:
Originally posted by scratcher

I suppose black powdercoat would give the most uniform results, but not the most accurate to the original. I am about to get the crank cases etc refinished on my own VF and was told the best finish would be acheived if all the 25 year old paint was removed first to give a good clean surface on which to apply the new finish. I have used a company which removed all the old paint by ‘sodablasting’ the cases, to give a clean blemish free key, with no associated grit to blow out afterwards and the result was impressive, like new cases! I have yet to decide whether to powdercoat them or use PJ1 engine case paint, which I have tested on the bare alloy sprocket cover with impressive results, very smooth, gloss finish as dark and shiny as stock! If I go the powdercoat route, I’d be very careful to mask up any threads, oil holes and gasket faces beforehand, cos getting that stuff off/out is a real pig of a job.

From what ure saying the PJ1 engine case paint is safer. But will will withstand the heat generated by the V4? are there any other alternatives?

Thanks for the reply mate very helpful.

I have used the PJ1 paint and although it’s a good finish itdoesn’t seem to be very tough.

7
quote:
Originally posted by planty

Scratcher, I would be interested in the silver colour match you found for the frame, could you post the original and modern equivalent.

Thanks

The original Honda paint code for the frame was NH104M-U,Pleiades Silver Metallic-U which crosses over to the current code MA145-50 PLEIADES SILVER, in the form of a 90 line water base paint(so I’m informed by my painter).

As to the temperature resistance of PJ1 paint for the motor. It is specifically formulated for engine cases and withstands up to 260 degrees C,(500 deg F) and is available in satin or gloss. I was advised to prep the parts by removing all old paint and degreasing the part, then warming it up to about 30 degrees(and warming the aerosol can as well), prior to spraying. Spray using a light dusting at first and allow 20 minutes to dry before layering a relatively thick coat to acheive the desired smooth finish. Then leave to cure for 3 WEEKS! Time will tell if it stays put, but this info was from a well respected restorer who swears by the stuff.