I’m thinking about replacing my fork seals, but it looks like I need a special tool to drive in the new seals. Trouble is google isn’t helping me to be sure that the tools I’m finding are ones that will work at all. The shop manual references a fork seal driver body (07947-KA50100) and an attachment (07947-KF00100). The Clymer references a Suzuki tool (09940-50112). Google results on the suzuki tool suggest it costs a lot and the pictures I’ve found don’t match what is shown in the clymer guide. Any idea of an alternate tool for either of these?
Any universal fork seal driver that will expand to 41mm will do the trick.
When fitting the top bush I use the back up washer that’s fitted under the seal, between the bush and seal driver
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Thanks for the info! The bit about 41mm was what I was missing. I ended up finding the honda seal driving tool online so I got that.
Or you can use the old seal, socket and a hammer…
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I ended up buying the original Honda tool since I found it online. After having used it and watched some YouTube videos involving forks that looked a lot like mine, I kinda wished I’d gotten a bit of PVC pipe and a 2x4 instead. Naja, at least I now have the right tool for the job! BTW it wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had imagined it would be. Still took many many hours to complete and re-complete.
Question: I don’t think I ever managed to get the left fork hex-bolt (the one at the bottom) correctly torqued. I think this is because the “piston” just keeps turning after a point. Also the “oil lock piece” didn’t come out of the left fork. Anybody else have this experience?
Dry assemble the fork,turn it upside down and compress the spring.I find that stops everything turning inside
I did something like that. Since the bolt kept turning and I could hear the parts turning inside on the left fork, do you think this means I put it back together wrong? I didn’t have this problem on the right fork. (The one without the anti dive mechanism)
These are pics from the NC24. I had problems disassembling the fork tubes. I used 25 mm nut and cutted the inside edges to block it with half inch wrench tool. (how do you this tools where you can change direction with a pin with or without torque adjustment?)
Edit: Yes I always have the problem to get out this oil lock piece. But I also observed that after 30 year and many hand working on the bikes, somebody did not put everything together as it should be.
Axel
I do not recognize those parts. They look a little like what the manual refers to as the “piston”. Maybe I should take it apart again. Alternatively I have the old fork and could take that apart to have a comparison. The manual mentions the spring has a “small coil” end, but the left/right springs I pulled out looked the same as each other and there wasn’t a small coil end.