On the Honda anti-dive TRAC system
one of the two front brake calipers is hinged behind the fork leg on a pivoting link, When you apply the brakes, the pads grip the disc and this tries to drag the brake caliper around with it. The caliper pivots on the link and presses against the anti-dive activating valve which is built directly into the fork leg. It then restricts the flow of fork oil and stiffens the suspension.
OR SO IT SAYS ANYWAY BUT DOES IT WORK ? WHAT ARE THE SETTING DIALS SUPPOSED TO BE SET TO DOESN ANYONE KNOW IF IT IS EFFCTIVE OR NOT OR HOW IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE SET UP ?
On my old VF1000FF bought new in 86, I played with the adjustments and you could tell the difference betyween the minimum and maximum setting on the TRAC adjuster(1 being minimum,4 maximum). It’s is likely that an old bike may need the forks stripping and cleaning to restore the effect, due mainly to the narrow oil orifices in the damper valve becoming sludged up over time, being as they are, in the bottom of the fork leg. I used to ride solo on setting 2 and 4 if I carried a pillion. The road tests of the day rated the Honda system as more effective than either the Kawasaki or Suzukis systems which used brake fluid pressure to operate a similar fork damper valve. Less complicated as well.
OK cool cool so mine will hopefully be OK my bike as 30 000 kms on it and i know the original owner it was driven quite easy so hopefully the system work still i cant quite figure out what setting is right for me what do you have yours at ? the rear and 2 front s ??? let me know thanks for the info
I found my anti-dive worked well first time i got on the bike and braked hard into a corner frightened myself to death never had a bike with anti-dive before,now i find it a pain because its always busting the seals.but it dose work
Going back to your fork seals stephen, in the last 2 years ive had my vf i must of changed them 6 times im not sure if this is a fault and i dont really know anyone to ask, in a way im very happy i can change them my self as it would cost me an arm & a leg at the local garage. Ive tried 10w fork oil from halfords and it ends up looking gray water when i chance it so ive ordered some rock oil 20w from the net and hopfullllllly it will work. Ive tried all 4 settings on my anti-drive and to be honest i really cant feel the difference and im like you, i love to brake late.
It’s interesting that you have to keep changing the fork seals, but is it the fault of the anti dive? I say that because the mechanism is only fitted to the left fork leg, the other containing no such device. So if BOTH seals are popping, then surely the cause must lie somewhere else. Maybe too high air pressure(manual says 0-6psi, I ran at 0, set with the wheel off the ground), too much oil(the book states different levels for each leg), or worn/damaged fork stanchions near full travel. Maybe it’s a combination of these factors. But if it was the fault of the anti dive alone, surely it would only blow one seal.
Well they have leaked so many times ive had the opportunity to try different methods lol. All the above i have already tried and tested. The right hand side seems to go first for some reason but i have to change both because of the new and old fork oil, i dont think they would damper correctly??? The stanchions are perfect with no pitting or bends…There is only 1 more thing to try and thats the higher grade fork oil, thanks again scratcher…
what do you guys mean only the left ??? my bike has a adjustment on the front left fork and on the top right fork also a lever in the rear NO IDEA HOW TO USE THEM nothing is leaking or sweating any oil in all 3 struts can some one explain why the anti drive isnt in both forks and the rear ? thanks
Thanks to vfcrazy finding me the right (i mean right lol) infomation this time i think i know who is the culprit, and the winner goes to… insufficient levels of oil in both forks and i think thats why my anti-dive isnt working either. i havnt had the luxury in using my rebound dampering on the front yet. No doubt someone will give you a great description how to use your settings on your vf, i know a little…but not as much as some guys on here lol (It really depends in how hard or soft you want your riding) Im always changing my rear pro-link because my wife rides pillion with luggage. For example, i wouldnt have 46psi in my rear with a setting of 1 because the rebound of the dampering would be too hard with my wife & luggage. This would put a lot of strain on your rear shock and the riding wouldnt partially be a comfy ride either. I would normally have the above setting riding solo. I hope this helps a little.