Well, buggery bollocks!
Just got a notification of a refund from CMSNL.com for the pulse coil assembly - they had miscalculated the number they had in stock.
In other words, they don’t have any, haven’t had any for quite some time and won’t be getting the many more.
Boo, and indeed, hoo.
ask them who is their supplier ?
Aye, good point.
Could ask them if they would do a run.
Mind you, they were about €110 before VAT a set.
I am interested to find out who makes them and where in the world
could soon splice new ones on a old loom as i did it for my bike 8)
VFR750 ones look similar, and are in the same impedance range. They should be 480ohms, the VFR750 ones are 450-550 ohms.
Now, as these engines are developed FROM the VF range, and do still share some common parts, i’d expect they may work.
This may be of use to you, and there’s a set here for £20. Worth a bash maybe?
C.
@atassiedevil: good spot, mate!
Indeed, I’m sure a skilled electrickery person could take the coils off the old assembly and put them on the VF one, so ensure the correct mounts.
not sure the hole spacings are correct
will find my old sets and measure them
I never said there wouldn’t be some work involved 
I’d suggest slot the mount holes, then you can work it into position from there.
It lives!
Or ticks over at least!
Not going to get a chance to get out on it till tomorrow, or maybe the next day, but at least it runs on the spare set of PGs.
UPDATE: no joy.
Took it for a spin, warmed it up carefully on local roads before heading for a 100kph+ cruise and bang on cue, it did it again.
So, it isn’t the pulse generators.
I have a spare set of coils, but as this stage, I think it might be the CDI, so I snagged one of them yesterday too. At this stage, that’s all it can be, coils or CDI.
Buggery bollocks.
Plus side, you have spare pulse generators.
Where are you based? I wouldn’t have a problem with you borrowing my CDI boxes if you’re near london as a test.
C.
@atassiedevil: thanks for that mate, but as I am in ]west Dublin, it’s still a bit of a stretch 
Mine is an FF, so just a single ignitor box, but I managed to snag one for €80 delivered, so between that and spare coils, I should be sorted.
If not, my next stage of action will be:
followed by:
UPDATE:
It’s not the coils!
Got some coils, changed the coils, went for a spin, right one queue, it dropped on two.
I stopped, shunted the fuel pump and limped on on two for a while, but then it came back on 4 and stayed on 4 for most of the way home.
This has led me to suspect that the CDI must have been failing for a while and maybe weakened the 2-4 coil because it defintely did not need as long to cool down before it came back on 4.
Anyway, the spare CDI is on its way, so I’ll just leave the replacement coils in and change the CDI as soon as it is here. Apart from the HT leads and plug caps, that is a whole new ignition system, so hopefully that’ll keep the battle cruiser, eh… cruising!
just a thought, the earlier FE model used to be prone to the wires breaking about an inch below the CDi units, normally you could recreate this problem by removing the cdi from its holder and manipulating the wire while the engine was running, i dont think this is whats affecting your bike as yours seems to travel a certain distance before it fails but it may be worth having a quick look while your waiting for the cdi to arrive.
anyway ascalan, i hope the cdi unit solves your problem, theres nothing worse than an unreliable bike.
Indeed, it wasn’t an expensive bike to start with, given the spec, but at this stage, if the CDI doesn’t sort it out, I’m going to very very upset, and re-think my having a classic as a daily driver.
Oh well, at least I have now rebuilt the Blackbird front brake master cylinder and can amuse myself by fitting it while I await the replacement CDI.
Also, my CBR wheel conversion kit should be arriving quite soon, so I must go and get the wheels powder coated and fitted with new bearings in anticipation.
A man’s work is never done. 
I’ve repaired a few of those CDIs.
Resolder the Board/Wires Pins,… they get tiny Circular Cracks around the Pins.
I’ve also replaced a couple FETS.
Thanks @VF1000Fe,
that’s good to know.
T’ brother in-law is an electronic engineer and knows his way around a soldering iron
OK, so got the replacement spark box today and fitted it and it fired right up, a tad easier, I think, than it did before.
I’ll take it to work tomorrow, and fingers crossed, she’ll be reet. 
On the plus side too, the wheel conversion kit arrived
Just need to get the wheels and sprocket carrier powder coated now and a set of tyres, but I’m skint after the Chrimbo 
FUUUUUUUUCK!
No joy. Didn’t even get as far as I usually do before it did exactly the same thing again.
At this stage all I have not changed are the HT leads and plugs.
This is really starting to piss me off now.
Hi Ascalan
Have you tried to change the points to original pump and put it back ? It is a 10 minutes job, and points are available in many places. Maybe the pattern pump and creative piping makes the problem. I wrote instructions about the change in US forum, but can copy them here too. There are many articles about this rocedure around internet, just google Honda fuel pump points.
I have also bypassed the relay, although I am planning (with our company nerds) to create modern replacement to the fuel cut off relay.
10 years with same Bol, once it left me left stranded, and the reason were fuel pump points
after following every stage of this
I still think its the same trouble as my bike, It had me going round in circles for weeks
I fitted a pump with the straight 10mm ends and had to fabricate the pipes to bend round a very impossible small space then reduce it down to 6mm pipes and get a filter in the right place with tye straps holding it to the plastic mount.
It was a barsteward to get in
The original pump is rated at one atmosphere so when the carbs are full it stops pumping, the four needle valves are the only thing holding back the pump because its live permenant and thats how it runs
soon i am fitting mt new needle valve kits because brass wears in the seats
