Battery

Hi, well my vf1000 battery has failed, optimate refuses to charge it so I need a new one.

What is every one fitting these days, lead acid, Gel or AGM ?
What have given good results when bike laid up for periods of time?

Regards
Vfcrazy

From my point of view
I use AGM battery’s for power backup on a large Solar panel install so I would not use them for a Motorcycle.
Gel battery’s definatly would not be suitable
So stick with the Lead Acid like Me when I put my rebuilt FE back on the road this summer time as its designed for the job.</font id=“green”>

As the saying goes </font id=“orange”> IF ITS NOT BROKE DON’T FIX IT</font id=“blue”>

We dont have experience of gel batteries,but have found that even with an optimate we are only getting two seasons out of a lead acid one when we lay the bikes up for 4 months of the year.regards BIF

Bif
I need a battery now and want a good quality one like Yuasa.
Any pointers please

Thanks for the info.
The battery that failed was a lead acid (wet) type, it’s only lasted 20 months even though it was kept topped using the optimate 3.
It may have been the sub-zero temperatures during winter that have killed it.

Just fitted a motobatt mb16u (AGM type battery), had to leave the black plastic base tray off to fit as the battery is 6mm taller than the Yuasa Yb16b-a.
Have read some good reports about AGM batteries holding charge better when not in use (slower self draining) so decided to give it a try.
I will report back on how it lasts.

Regards
Vfcrazy

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this next winter I am going to do what my brother does in Topeka Kansas with my other bike and all his

put them on a trickle charger over winter.

Actually, best place to store full charged battery is a deep-freezer, temperature around -20 degrees Celsius. I usually charge the battery once hey last during wintertime, and they last 4 seasons. I never keep them in charger over winter, I do not trust in those chargers. I use either Yuasa or Exide lead-acid batteries.

Got a Yuasa on from Panks in Norwich today
Cost Me £51.10 and its a 19Ah model.
its tan upgrade from the original
Now I just need a fuse from CJ Ball on Wednesday to Start it up.

Getting close now,

Take your point about storage in a cool place, garage reached -14 deg c on occasions this winter, not as cold as some other countries but brass monkey weather for the UK.

It may have just been a poor quality battery. It was bought when I started my F2 rebuild (still not finished).
The battery on my FE has been on the bike for 3 years without any problem.

I think i’ll check the charging circuit on the F2 now I can start it again.

Regards
Vfcrazy

Just been and checked voltages with digital multimeter.

12.9 volts across battery without ignition on
12.7 volts across battery with ignition on
14.85 volts across battery with engine running and lights on.

do these figures look correct?
Vfcrazy

Those volts looks OK to me. Check the 3-wire connector between alternator and regulator, it gets loose and dirty when time goes, that can cause problems.
You have had some real winter there too, we had about on month colder than -20, couple days around -35, and Xantia’s battery started the engine in the morning. We use electric heaters to warm coolant in cars parked out, though.

Hi, I check the electrical connector yearly, clean and pack with ‘contralube 770’ this stops any corrosion occuring.
These connectors have been known to get hot enough to melt the plastic if not looked after. Very important to check them!!

I see that windysolar has replaced this connector.

Vfcrazy

On the topic of batteries…I will need to start this new '85 VF1000R project soon, and there are so many batteries on the market that claim to be the right one, when if comes to CCA (cold cranking amps)
What is the CCA that I need. 240? 315? 360?

I am going with a Lithium ion battery. More expensive, but I think worth it. I have one in my Yam SRX and no regrets.
-Drew in Illinois, USA

Hi Drew,
for the battery,the bigest the best! Ihave a 315 CCA on mine and it’s fine!

I tend to use the glass matt/lead acid batteries these days.
Very very reliable, high cranking amps and they last ages. Motobatt is a good brand, and i use these exclusively on all of my VFs. Never had one fail in service yet, so can’t report on how long they last. One is at least 2 years old at this point, and still going strong.

original Yuasa battery still going strong after 3-4 years
worth the money
mr honda cant be wrong :slight_smile:

Got a VARSA yb16 from Plymouth Batteries for £42 inc, with acid and delivery. Branded. We’ll see how it goes.

the only problem i ever had using aftermarket/equivalent batteries (other than the quality) was the size, the yuasa fits perfectly in the black plastic battery box, every other battery ive tried hasn’t even though they are quoted as the same size, even the motobatt that im using at the moment is too big, i even had to send one battery back because i couldn’t get the side panel back on,

going to top up cells with acid not distilled water as it just dilutes the cells and make them weaker 8)

The lead acid ones are rubbish now days.Motobatt glass matt ones seem to be the best.Put then on my CBR1000 that i dont use for months at a time and the battery is still like new.

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