Found these two bikes in the back of a shed.
One has had substantial crash damage.
Going to be a long one but great to add to the collection.
Owned one new and purchased it in the crate in 85.
Had to order them in NZ $9600.00 back then
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Nice one and do enjoy 
Keep us updated with the project and plenty pictures please
Yes will do.
Does this site have a parts manual and workshop manual?
Cheers
Started cleaning up things.
Got it running and is very quiet,no clunks or rattles yet to oil press test .
No oil in air cleaner or catch tank which is great.
Fired up straight away with a little starter fliud,
Cooling temp gauge working correctly and fans came on correctly .found coolant leak which might be a issue to fix.Second bike missing carbs computer and other things ,nice and clean down intakes so will turn over and oil up.getting swing arm out to clean and welding on paddock stand bobins to make life easier in the future.
Coolant leak has been fixed and rad flushed.
Made up a new battery box to suit the battery that fits the cb’s.
Attached anderson plug so can change out quickly and not wreak terminals.
Mounted some of the plastic and went for a short ride 10ks.
Front forks leaking badly so out they come.
Brakes shit but full of oil so needed.
I got an 85 vf1000r for sale if anyone’s interested. It runs but has a vacuum leak. I think it was a California model and the guy tried to delete the smog canisters so I have a hose that goes to nowhere.
Brakes getting a rebuild.
Don’t think i’ll use these pistons?
Refilling brake fluid with dot 5.0 silicone .
Have also replaced steering bearings and rebuilt forks.
If it is rust, don’t use them. If not try to clean them. Mine had some pitting and I replaced them.
Be aware the system is designed for DOT 4.0 / 5.1 so I would not use DOT 5.0.
Faxe is spot on with the fluid,we use dot 5.1 in both the brakes and clutch systems.Dot 5 is for racing use,it collects a lot of moisture which pools in the lower parts of the system and causes havoc when it boils under heavy braking.Race cars/bikes will have the fluid changed frequently to avoid problems.
I use Dot 5.0 in all my old bikes as they get limited use .
Dot 5.0 does not absorb water, will not corrode parts or paint if spilt.
Boiling point is just as good as other dot ranges but I don’t race.
Cannot be used with ABS systems and cannot be mixed with other glycol based fluids.
As i over haul brake systems totally and clean out it gets replaced .My 2016 vfr800 has abs so will not change this and what a mission to do.
In that case crack on mate
Hi bif.
I hear were you are coming from and fair comment and not trying to shoot you down in anyway.
We all have our ideas plus its good to hear other peoples thought’s.
cheers.
I see what you’re doing if your bikes don’t do a lot of miles,plus I didn’t explain myself well,I understand that dot 5 is not hygroscopic but that’s it’s problem.It won’t hold any moisture in suspension rather it means it will pool.
I respect everyone has their own approach so I certainly wouldn’t want to knock the work you are doing.
Keep it up mate
Best regards Bif
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Moving onto wheel alignment time.
After checking found it was 1mm out with the axle pushed into the front of the swingarm.
Adjusted chain found factory marks pretty good.
Good news and the steering stops have no damage.
Great work mate from across the Tasman.
You’re making good progress, keep it up.
I’m at a similar stage with an RE, and also have another project RE.
Keep the pics coming, good to see how others are going.
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Hi speedy gp.
Just rebuilt rear brakes.
Been using a ultrasonic cleaner with good results.
Have you got a 4 into 1 on yours?
Have been flushing cooling system out and checked thermostat out
Noticed that when I gave it a good rev engine fumes blew out the wiring loom that goes to alternator any ideas?
Is there any other engine breathers other than the one on top of rear rocker cover?
Any help appreciated.
If you’re getting fumes out of the alternator loom, it needs proper sealing inside the loom where the three wires go through or you’ll eventually be getting oil leaking through there as well. There’s only the one breather…on the rear valve/rocker cover, which should then be connected to the airbox via the longer of the two hoses.
Smithy.
Cheers for that info.
Will remove alternator clean up wiring and reseal from inside out.
Hmm, fumes out of the alternator is strange, you shouldn’t be getting much pressure through from the cranckcase. As Smithy said the main breather is the large one on top, hose from valve cover to clear breather bottle. There is another smaller diameter breathe hose which connects the gearbox from behind the countershaft area.
Might be worth checking that both breathers are clear and not pinched?
Yes, have a Lazer 4-1 which I was lucky to get hold of years ago